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Considering building an impoundment in far southwestern missouri yards...

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 Posted 3/10/2014 9:16:22 PM
 

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Like the title says.  I currently have a field of decent size that I am thinking about trying to make an impoundment.  Being that close to a river, will it be successful? Or would I be beating my head against the wall?  I have enough open field for about 6 acres of water.  I read swamper is the expert so sir, if you are feeling up to it let me know your thoughts.  I have arial pics and vids, but don't seem to want to load.

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 Posted 3/11/2014 5:24:40 PM
 

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Here is a pic if it works.

 impoundment.jpg (40 views, 140.82 KB)
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 Posted 3/16/2014 7:59:01 PM
 

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:Whistling: Not everyone at once now....:D
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 Posted 3/17/2014 10:06:39 AM
 

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ok! during my recovery there is nothing I'd rather be doing than talking impoundments.

we need to start at the beginning.  some basic questions first and foremost.

is the soil hydric.  ie: will it hold water. 

is there a source of water via gravity or will this need to be filled by nature or pumps.

swamper


"Cripples are our worst legacy. Hunt with a Retriever."

"Phil Robertson calls me for advice." :)
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 Posted 3/17/2014 9:18:49 PM
 

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Swamper I sent you an email through this site that had some details in it, but just incase it didn't go through I'll provide some details.

Yes, I believe as long as we don't take too much off the top it will hold water.  Being where it is I'm sure there will be a gravel layer at some depth we don't want to get into.  I intend on taking a backhoe up at some point this week and digging a test hole to find out where that layer might be.  Is there a way to test its ability to hold water?  When it rains it doesn't currently pond up or anything.

The source of water is the river the property sets on, but it would have to be pumped or nature as it sets higher that the water.  I've been trying to get a ball park idea on the cost of a pump but it seems to range quite a bit.  There are a couple of considerations that will have to be taken into account.  One is that when it floods, the water usually is moving at a pretty good clip through there, but the tree line keeps any erosion from happening in the field, but with a berm I'm not too sure what would happen.  I think with the natural channel that has been formed it could be routed that way more.

In your opinion, can ducks be pulled off of a river, (this isn't a huge river) effectively?  Right now it seems they stay on farm ponds till they start to freeze up, then they flock to the river.  I guess my goal would be to pull water from the river during these times to keep it open.

To my knowledge there is no one anywhere near me that is doing one of these for me to go check out so I'm flying blind on this and trying to educate myself.  I would want to self fund the project to keep any and all government "help" at bay.

I can email you better pictures if you like, I flew my drone over the whole piece and went way up to get a wide angle of the whole area.

Thanks for your time.  I read about your medical issues, and wish you God speed on your recovery sir!  

John
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 Posted 3/18/2014 12:20:53 PM
 

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John,

First, thanks for the words of encouragement.  I am doing well and expect to be back in the blinds this Fall!! 

To check your land for its hydric characteristics, you can do something as simple as a Peculation Test, just as you would do for a septic system.

dig a 6" round hole, about 12" deep.  fill it full of water.  the first test will look like it is draining more than you like. but it often is just saturating the surrounding surfaces.  After an hour.  Fill the hole again. This time you will hope to see the water standing in the hole and not "perking" out.  If it stays, then you can assume it will hold water, at that depth. 

your impoundment only needs to hole 8-12" of water for the hunting season. this is the optimum level.  actually, 4-6" is very favorable. 

relying on mother nature to fill the impoundment is subject to the size of the area and the depth of water you're looking for.  in a drought or even a low rainfall season, your impoundment may sit there dry and useless for hunting.

however, if you can get water from the river you can potentially have a duck bonanza.  perhaps your land lends itself well to digging a series of potholes that can be done cheaper and equally effective.

I will grab some pothole design drawings and post them up.  talk soon.

swamper

oh and in answer to your question:  absolutely you can pull ducks off the river if you offer them some tasty food!

we can discuss that also.


"Cripples are our worst legacy. Hunt with a Retriever."

"Phil Robertson calls me for advice." :)
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 Posted 3/18/2014 6:44:20 PM
 

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http://www.ducks.org/mydu/members/messageboards/Uploads/Images/84429d1c-10a3-4624-af82-b2b2.jpg

Here is a shot with more elevation.  It is shrunk down quite a bit but you can see some of the rolls in the land where the water cuts through first.  and the river that wraps around.
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 Posted 3/19/2014 11:26:53 AM
 

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john,

I'm still looking for pothole design drawings.  for some reason some of  my links i've used over the years are no longer active.  and my paper file drawings are too big for me to scan on my little printer.

but..............

I found this website which is excellent.  tons of info.  some not so important for now. but as you progress with the actual management of the wetland, it will be helpful.

remember, potholes are irregular shapes, 6:1 slopes to keep muskrat out, and generally 0-18" varying bottom depth. if you can put a drain pipe in back to a lower elevation, a pothole can be manipulated if you can find a water source to fill it.  in other words, a pothole can be drained to allow for planting, then filled for the hunt season. then repeat in mid summer.

impoundments are generally, bathtubs, if you will, that can be filled and drained, that generally have deeper sections along with shallows and have berms around them.  they are great on flat ground where draining them would be a problem if you excavate for your depth.  building them "on top" of the existing ground allows for drainage.  your berm material will come from the surrounding area.  that in itself will create potholes left from borrowing the material for the berms.

it looks, from your photo, that a series of potholes, connected with level ditches will work great for you.  you just need to figure out how to get water to them when mother nature doesn't.

http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/nrcs143_010838.pdf




just remember to check your hydric soil status first.  and I should mention that checking into local, state or federal permit requirements isn't a bad idea. in fact, I recommend it. 


"Cripples are our worst legacy. Hunt with a Retriever."

"Phil Robertson calls me for advice." :)
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 Posted 3/19/2014 5:24:24 PM
 

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How long after saturation fill on the second fill should water stand or is there an acceptable perc rate? Or are we looking for 0" drop.  Doing this as I type.  We have had good rain in the past few days so ground is pretty wet as it is.
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 Posted 3/19/2014 6:43:11 PM
 

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you would hope that it would hold the water for a considerable amount of time.  the best scenario would be no loss. water in the hole tomorrow would be reassuring.  try a couple different locations.  sometimes you can find varying soils within a parcel.

a quick test is to take a shovel full, saturate it and try and mold it into a ball  in your hand.  if it doesn't crumble apart, that's a good sign.


"Cripples are our worst legacy. Hunt with a Retriever."

"Phil Robertson calls me for advice." :)


Edited: 3/19/2014 6:46:54 PM by Swamper
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